Facial
Cleansing For Your Skin Type
By Diana Clarke on March 24, 2005
 Do
you know best way to wash your face and which products to
use? Dermatologists say that there are several ways to cleanse
the face, but the ingredients that work for one person may
not work for someone else. What’s more, there is a barrage
of new products to choose from.
To help you decide which methods and tools for cleansing
the skin are best for you, dermatologist Zoe D. Draelos, M.D.,
clinical associate professor in the department of dermatology
at Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem,
N.C., discusses skin regimens that are appropriate for each
skin type.
“There are an overwhelming number of facial cleansing
products, implements and tools available today. The most important
thing an individual can do to determine the best facial cleansing
routine is to visit a dermatologist who can provide recommendations
based on the patient’s skin type and lifestyle,”
said Dr. Draelos.
According to Dr. Draelos, there are three methods to cleanse
the face:
- facial cleansers
- implements
- cleansers and tools.
Facial Cleansers – Soap
Dermatologists don’t recommend the use of soap on
the face. In particular, a type of deodorant soap, comber,
contains fragrance and harsh detergent, which is more suitable
for the body.
Mild soap-free cleansing bars composed of synthetic detergent,
called syndets contain a low pH. A low pH is more acidic,
so it doesn’t disturb the acid coating of the skin.
A high pH, which is more alkaline, would disturb the skin’s
acid mantle and thus irritate the skin. However, facial cleansing
bars may not remove oil from an oily complexion. Therefore,
liquid facial cleansers would be more suitable for this skin
type.
Lipid-free Cleansers
“Lipid-free cleansers are best for patients with excessively
dry or sensitive skin,” said Dr. Draelos. “However,
they are not very effective at removing oil or environmental
dirt and are only recommended where minimal cleansing is needed.”
Ingredients in lipid-free cleansers include glycerin, cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium laurel and sulfate, among
others. Dermatologists don’t recommend this type of
cleanser for skin with acne because the product would moisturize
the skin.
Cleansing Cream
Cleansing creams contain water, mineral oil, petrolatum and
waxes. They are best for those with dry skin. Cleansing creams
cleanse the skin as well as remove cosmetics.
Abrasive Scrubs
Abrasive scrubs not only cleanse the skin but also exfoliate
it. “Scrubs were developed after it was found that exfoliating
produced smoother skin,” stated Dr. Draelos. “The
challenge with abrasive scrubs is that the scrubbing granules
can cause irritation, redness or slight wounds on the face.”
Those with sensitive skin should not use harsh, abrasive
scrubs that contain, among other ingredients, aluminum oxide
particles and ground fruit pits. But even those with sensitive
skin may use a mild facial scrub that contains polyethylene
beads or sodium tetraborate decahydrate granules, added Dr.
Draelos.
Skin Cleansing Tools
Skin cleansing tools were developed for those who want to
achieve thorough facial cleansing. “Individuals who
use implements or tools with cleansers often feel that they
are getting a deeper clean, but cleansing involves the chemical
interaction of the cleanser with the skin accompanied by the
physical act of scrubbing,” said Dr. Draelos. “Dermatologists
can help individuals select the appropriate implement or tool
to include in a good facial hygiene routine.”
Woven Mesh
This implement helps cleanse and exfoliate the skin. Non-woven,
polyester fiber sponges are too harsh on the skin. However,
woven mesh sponges are appropriate for most skin types, are
gentler, and contain a mild cleanser.
Face Cloths
Disposable facial cleansing cloths release a foaming cleanser
when wet. “The recent addition of humectants and emollients
to these cloths can decrease the damage to the skin’s
natural barrier that occurs during cleansing and help smooth
the skin,” stated Dr. Draelos. “These ingredients
also are especially beneficial for those of us with dry skin
who need to wash frequently.”
Loose, open-weave cloths help exfoliate the skin and are
recommended for sensitive skin. Tight or closed-weave cloths
also exfoliate the skin but to a greater extent. These are
recommended for oily skin.
Cleansing Pouch
The cleansing pouch contains two fiber cloths with different
size holes. The Size of the hole determines the amount of
cleanser that is released onto the skin.
Face Brush Individuals can use the facial cleanser they choose
with this electric cleansing brush that contains an oscillating
brush head with soft bristles.
“While each of these cleansers and tools offers unique
advantages, ultimately, working with a dermatologist to determine
the skin’s tolerance for certain cleansing ingredients
is the best way to keep facial skin clean and healthy,”
said Dr. Draelos.
SOURCES: American Academy of Dermatology press conference.
"Cutting through the clutter: making the most of your
facial cleansing routine." Zoe D. Draelos, MD, clinical
associate professor of dermatology, Wake Forest University
School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, N.C.
Diana Clarke is a California credentialed
teacher and health educator. Visit her website at www.yourskinandsun.com.
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